Lookya yonder. A big black cloud come over*

America really, really surprised me today. We went to Elvis's house in Tupelo, Mississippi this afternoon and do you know what? Its one of the most tasteful, pleasant places I have ever been to. There was nothing gaudy and brash about the whole museum (they also have the church he attended as a child and a chapel and a gift shop) with perhaps the exception of some of the tat in the gift shop - go on, you know you have always wanted a cut out cardboard, life size Elvis in his Army uniform don't you (I resisted the temptation). Yes, there were people in their Elvis shirts, carrying their Elvis bags (which is sort of fair enough today and no, it was just coincidence we went today) but it was all done in a very low key way. Not sure about Graceland though (where we won't be going which I know will disappoint some as I won't be able to do this). And to prove that I am not sitting in my flat in Nashua, lifting photos from the internet - us in front of Elvis's car

Added to that that Tupelo is a really nice little town with art galleries and cafes and guitar shops. They might milk the Elvis connection for every dime they can but can you really blame them, there doesn't seem to be an awful lot else to shout about (and I don't think a Nick Cave song really counts).

*- Factually incorrect - it was beautiful blue skies and sunshine in Tupelo this afternoon.